What does it take to enter a room?
With sartorial know-how and body language, you can muster the confidence to take that space.
But what do you wear to make an impression? Is it a tailored waistcoat as a pass-anywhere outfit, worn with or without a suit? Or a one-and-a-half-breast jacket with tapered trousers worn under puffy blousons?
The current shift in menswear parameters became the synthesis of Zegna’s XXX Winter 2020 collection, bringing up new forms and ideas within a recognizable framework.
Some of the biggest jolts come from the collection’s metamorphic play of textures and shapes in a muted palette and peacock blue. It’s also described as neat and layered: with the sum of all the parts accentuated with ergonomic details such as flaps and patch pockets that add a utilitarian slant.
“At Zegna I have the privilege to experiment at every level, from the mix of fibres to the evolved tailoring shapes. It is all about reshuffling or hybridizing categories, breaking boundaries in order to explore new territories: this is our new tailoring lexicon,” says Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori.
A proper handshake conveys confidence, and so does Zegna’s Modern Tailoring line which shows that you know the context.
Its pieces have long maintained a reverent relationship that present a more conscious attitude and the art of tailoring beyond trends.
Building on the same blocks in the most classic sense, it blends the worlds of work, travel, and leisure in upcycled fabrics.
This conscious attitude comes from the #UseTheExisting project, which employs innovative processes to create fabrics from pre-existing sources, including waste resulting from the processing of fibers, yarns and fabrics, as well as post-consumer materials that have been reclaimed through recycling processes.
Together the looks comprise all the musts of traditional tailoring, recut with the spirit of versatility and an eye toward conservation.
The 7-second rule
Finding common ground in 7 seconds is not easy. But it helps if you share your true self.
Z Zegna FW20 is inspired by a true modern dandy: a mysterious character, cultured and stylish, in search of his personal expression. It’s a personal metaphor and this collection is a vehicle to where you can express yourself and, in doing so, find that common ground with the person you’re talking to.
From TechmerinoTM Exclusive to Zegna, TECHMERINO™ (which enhances the innate characteristics of Merino wool using advanced processes) to functional constructions and new silhouettes, coexisting in the worlds of work and play. A double soul in a single collection, perfect for the modern trans-seasonal wardrobe.
And if you’re always on the move, the customized materials with a technical soul are remixed with sartorial textures. This results in a range of designs, both sporty and refined, with impeccable, yet relaxed and uncomplicated silhouettes.
First Impressions Last
You don’t need to wow or dazzle, you need to start a conversation.
Lastly, Ermenegildo Zegna and Fear of God join forces—from the spontaneous dialogue between Alessandro Sartori and Jerry Lorenzo.
The collection is calibrated in Zegna’s touch points: social rhythm and a new grammar of style. The pieces—which include deconstructed suits and oversized outerwear in vicuna and the finest leathers—fuse elegance, wearability and heritage in the most desirable way as possible.
Highbrow in every sense, there’s an evolving dialogue between Milan and Los Angeles, though still easily digestible.
Altogether, the collection transcends an ambitious level of production and output that—even when not always coherent in theme—conveyed Zegna’s ever-evolving mindset.