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All in the Cut: How and why Italian tailoring suits the Asian frame

Italian tailoring has long been talked about for its distinctive style, but how well does it hang on Asians?

In the sartorial world, only a few styles of tailoring generally come out as the most prominent, and one of these is Italian tailoring. The Italians (compared to their counterparts, the British and the Americans) are known for making distinctive suits with slim silhouettes, alongside simple and elegant designs.

Still, as with any other field, there’s a wide range of Italian styles that differ in approach: the Romans and the Milanese, to name the more classic ones; and the Neapolitans, who make a kind of soft, unstructured suit that is theirs alone. All of this doesn’t even take into account the personal styles and cuts of each tailoring house, who may add (or even remove) some flourishes to their liking.

But generally, the Italian suit has a shorter jacket, a tailored waist, and a very close fit, more so than the other styles. So what does this mean for Asians? Well, that means Italian tailoring favors the Asian physique.

The shorter jacket gives the illusion of height (for the generally less tall Asians), and makes the legs look longer. Coupled with the closely cropped Italian trousers that have a high waist, this creates a sleeker, more elegant silhouette. The slimmer fit also works better on the those with a slimmer build (for the generally less bulky Asians). Even men with very slight builds are better off wearing them, since looser suits will only draw attention to their size (or lack of it).

But what’s it really like? Here are a few looks to try out, and each one shows how well Italian style tailoring suits the Asian man.

The tailored shirt

What you’re looking at here is an azure cotton shirt by Tiño. This tailored essential is as reliable as they come, and is seen paired with a silk tie by Cordone 1956. Its neat cutaway collars—with or without a jacket—will never look slovenly, and will always cut a fine figure.

The go-to suit

The house signature—and perhaps one of the most utterly rakish ensembles—the Navy Striped suit is the default move for many men. Taken from the Emergence Collection, this set is made from Guabello Super 120s wool, and is paired with a Tie by Cordone 1956, a pocket square by Tiño, and Berwick 1707 model 2585-K1 dress shoes. The shoes are made from box calf leather, which we totally advocate. 

The (subtle) statement jacket

Stand out against everyone else’s muted wardrobe with a Brown Herringbone DB Coat from the Emergence Collection. It’s made out of an autumnal shade of Reda Super 110s wool, which will still let you blend in if you feel like it. And if you don’t, you can throw in the occasional strong pop of color in the form of a Valentino knitted tie for a bigger impact, which works with the neutral palette. 

The classic adventurer

Made from luxurious Baird Mcnutt Irish Linen, this Safari Milltown jacket will allow you to take on any adventure in fine style. The jacket here is paired with a gray cashmere sweater and pair of Guabello Super 120s wool trousers.



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